Tips From Chris

Flowerhorns are extremely hardy, but like all hybridized fish with diminished gene pools, they are also somewhat more prone to sickness.  And like all fish, they have their own specific requirements to bring out the best in them.

• The kryptonite of flowerhorns is hexamita (link for this word), an internal parasite which eats the fish from the inside.
• The times when Flowerhorns are most susceptible to this are when the fish are stressed.  In order to minimize stress in flowerhorns, conduct frequent small water changes; ideally, maintaining an NO3 level of approximately less than 30ppm.  Also, be sure to minimize tank aggression, and inconsisntency of maintenance routines.
• The initial signs that a flowerhorn is sick or stressed are lack of appetite, loss of color, shrinking of kok, and/or inactivity.  When you notice any of these signs, take it as a red flag and try to figure out the cause and address it.
• The more serious signs of a hexamita outbreak, are white poo, white pimples, or "duck lips".  If any of these symptoms can be seen immediate treatment is required.  My method of choice is to begin treatment of metronidazole (present in many products including Clout by Aquarium Products, Jungle Clear by Jungle Labs, General Cure by Aquarium Pharm., Metro + by Hikari, et.c) at a dosage of double i.e. 2 tabs/10g administered daily, accompanied by a daily dose of Melafix, daily dose of Aquarium Salt at a dose of 1tbsp/5g, a temperature range of approximately 85F - 90F, and a 50% water change every 2-3 days.  During this treatment light feeding should be attempted every day or two and if a fish doesn't eat for 2 weeks, alternative foods such as live worms or goldfish should be incorporated.
• Certain fish enjoy varying water parameters so be sure to "play" with the water parameters to find out how to bring the best out in your fish.  The best way to do this is to maintain consistent water chemistry, environment for a period of time and employ small and minor changes over a period of time.  The key is to give a fish a little time to adapt and react to each adjustment.  For example, Thai fish often enjoy quite high pH and temp, while Viet fish may prefer lower readings.