BASIC PLANT CARE

Planted aquariums have been around for over 30 years, although they have often been on the fringe.  Even today, the planted aquarium does not share the limelight with along with the reefing community, even though well thought-out systems are simply breathtaking.   The most notable style from yesteryear is probably the Dutch style.  Modern aquascaping styles such as the Nature Forest and Iwagumi have usurped the Dutch style, and with advances in our methodology, planted aquariums have become much more mainstream.  They can be considered to be similar to reefs in their ease of care, sustainability,  and awe-inspiring visuals.

Lighting:

Generally speaking you will need 2-3.5 watts per gallon for enough light for your plants, however, like all general guidelines (fish in inches per gallon, pounds of liverock per gallon, et.c) – there is a caveat emptor.  What is more important to know about is the PAR value, or photsynthetically available radiation.  One of the most popular lighting options is the HOT5.  These are very efficient, producing low amounts of heat, consuming low wattages, and put out an extreme amount of light.  Once you have made the initial investment, the plant growth and beautiful aquarium will be a worthwhile investment. The exception here is Anubias (beautiful plants), Java Ferns, Cryptocornes, Saggitaria, Vallisneria. They will do well with any amount of lighting and actually prefer some shading if placed in a two to four watt tank. Anubias and Java Ferns have Rhizomes, with roots dangling from the Rhizome so the best way to grow them is to attach them to rocks or driftwood by tying them with cotton thread, until they can wrap their roots around the rock or driftwood.

Carbon Dioxide:

All plants need carbon to do well and it has been discovered recently just how true this really is.  There are a handful of plants that will thrive without the addition of CO2; ferns, mosses, anubias, crypts, swords.  But many plants will not survive at all without CO2, and even those that don’t require will flourish with the addition of it. There are a couple of ways for them to get that. One is the traditional CO2 gas tanks, an investment of a few hundred dollars. I recommend that you go the CO2 tank route if you are really serious. Once the initial investment is made the CO2 will cost only a few dollars and last for a long time before a refill is needed depending on the size of your CO2 tank. Then there are the yeast and sugar devices that provide CO2 by mixing the solution in a container and producing CO2 as the end result. The other is to provide liquid carbon. Seachem makes an excellent carbon dioxide liquid called Seachem Excel, it lasts a long time, You can find them on the site under CO2 supplies. I recommend making the initial investment in the CO2 gas tank system. It is very inexpensive to fill once you have them and can last many months depending on the size of the tank.

Fertilizer:

This is the easy one. It is a matter of personal preference to choose the right fertilizer for your plants. You wouldn't grow houseplants without it, and aquatic plants need it as well. Follow the directions on the bottle. You can kill your plants if you use more than the recommended dosage because you think more will bring faster growth. Also, do not use fertilizers with phosphates or Nitrates. (check the label) These cause algae blooms. When you are ready you can get more detailed information about fertilizing your plants depending on your setup. 

Water Conditions:

Not a tough one, but a few words of caution. You must use only cold water when filling your tank, and make sure that it is de-chlorinated with the proper de-chlorinator available through your aquatic specialist. Warm it to between 76 and 78 degrees with your aquarium heater. Do not use warm water if you have a water softener! Softening salts will kill your plants! Also make sure you use a filter that provides water movement, below the surface, healthier for both plants and fish. Also, you must change at least twenty-five to thirty percent and up to fifty percent of your water weekly, depending on your method of feeding. Popular methods are the E.I. method by Tom Barr and also the Diana Walstad method.

Pruning and planting:.

When you cut stem plants cut them above the node with a sharp knife or better a scissors. Remove the leaves to the depth that the stem will be in the gravel. For Rhizome plants, (Anubias, Bolbitus, Java Ferns) cut the rhizome in half or so that you leave a rhizome piece with at least three leaves. It will then grow into a new plant. For Valisneria and swords, do not cover the root tops with gravel, only the root strands should be under the gravel. For Cryptocoryne, bury the root completely. For Aponogeton, leave the bulb above the gravel. Remove all dead or weak growth leaves as this gives the plant more energy to grow into a beautiful specimen.

Credits:

1- FRESHAQUARIUM.ABOUT.COM

2- For well researched and up to date Aquarium and pond information, articles, help, and resources, based on 30 years professional aquarium maintenance experience and research.

3- Fish Geeks

4- Tropical freshwater aquariums

5- Killies.Com

6- WetWebMedia.Com

7- AquaHobby

8- Badmans Tropical Fish BADMANSTROPICALFISH.COM

9- Aquarium Design Group

10- Permaworld

11- The Planted Tank

12- The Minnesota Aquarium Society http://www.aquarium.mn/main/

13- The Minnesota Killie Keepers Association

14- Mongo Bay Biotopes and plant care

15- California Waterscapes(Pond Design & Installation)

16- AquaticHouse Aquarium Supplies(Online store specializing in quality aquarium and pond supplies)

17- Aquariumpros.com - Online discount aquarium supply store and more! Featuring secure shopping for thousands of aquarium supplies, free email advice & hundreds of aquarium informational and interactive resources.

18- The Goldfish Doctor ("A top quality, step-by-step guide to the diagnosis, treatment, and cure of sick goldfish.")